What tools do I need?
It is entirely possible to make an item from polymer clay using only your
hands and your oven. Your HANDS are your most important tool for working
and conditioning polymer clay. But, there are many tools available to make
working with polymer clay easier. The following is a list:
Most important is an OVEN. Either your kitchen oven or you may use a
toaster oven that you can set in another area, such as garage, patio or
someplace away from the living area of your home. If your polyclay
accidentally burns, the fumes can be quite nasty, not to mention, your oven
will need a thorough cleaning. A small toaster oven purchased at a discount
store for under $20, is suggested.
The tool that should be renamed the Polymer Clay Conditioner is the PASTA
MACHINE. Not the extruding type, but the roller type. The price can range
anywhere from $40 down to below $20 when on sale. It is an indispensable tool for
conditioning and rolling thin sheets for wrapping. {see how to condition).
Purchase one that can be secured to a table top.
An optional tool, the FOOD PROCESSOR is gaining favor for conditioning
polymer clay. Try to find one at a discount store or yard sale. Do not reuse
the same food processor for food. The clay needs to be softened with a few
drops of mineral oil to take the strain off the machine. (see conditioning
instructions)
Glass, tile or Plexiglas WORKING SURFACE. Glass surfaces can be purchased
at a kitchen store. Some are rough on top, but the other side is smooth.
Remove the skid-proof feet and turn. To keep from sliding, reglue the feet to
the rough side. Large ceramic tile sections can be purchased at a discount
store or a tile store. Look for a smooth surface and attach rubber plugs to
the underside to avoid sliding.
A glass table top can be used or any smooth surface (polymer clay can ruin
some wooden surfaces). Clean thoroughly before using that surface for food
preparation.
CLAY EXTRUDERS are handy for making uniform shapes to incorporate into
canes, hair or wherever a pre formed shape is needed. (Clay must be
well-softened and warm to extrude with ease. Clay guns are also available at
craft stores.
BRAYERS or ROLLERS are handy for flattening the clay if you do not have a
pasta machine. They are helpful for making square logs.
An X-ACTO KNIFE is useful for cutting shapes and trimming.
For fine slicing of canes, the TISSUE BLADE is a must. Long blades from
replaceable craft knives can also be used.
A PIERCING tool is necessary for making holes in beads. Substitutes may be
DARNING NEEDLES or toothpicks.
Disposable or dedicated OVEN PAN. One that will fit into the oven and
support the FLORIST WIREs necessary to bake the beads. Cover bottom of pan
with parchment paper when baking flat pieces.
Some other useful tools are small PAINT BRUSHES for smoothing, a RULER for
measuring, SHAPE CUTTERS (the smaller the better} and any shaping tool
suitable for earth clay work
Another tool, especially designed to aid in sizing is the TEMPLATE. This
TEMPLATE will give you the ability to achieve success and greater satisfaction
in your attempts to make the designs in the many publications available.
If you make beads and jewelry, it will give you accuracy and consistency in ball
sizes. You will also be able to duplicate your work from the suggested clay to
a clay of your choice or to the clay that is available in your area. If you
cannot locate this TEMPLATE, please contact by email, diana-crick@mindlink.bc.ca
and she will help you.
top
Polymer clay is certified as non-toxic, but it is advised that you do not use the same utensils or other
tools for any food preparation. Thoroughly clean any area used for polyclay manufacturing before
preparing food in the same area. Clean your hands well before handling food using a light abrasive such
as liquid cleansers. Follow up with hand cream as the clay is very drying to your hands.Alcohol wipes,
like "Wet-Ones" are great for hand-cleaning. They are also good for cleaning surfaces and equipment.
The metallic powders used with the polymer clay will irritate your throat and lungs. You are
strongly advise to wear a mask and gloves while working with powders. Read the labels of the products
you are working with and follow directions carefully. Polymer clays, baked at the proper temperatures do
not present a hazard. Prolonged inhalation of the fumes is not recommended. Polymer clay is petroleum
base material so you should avoid excessive fumes if possible. If you accidentally burn the polymer clay,
immediately ventilate the area. The gases produced from burning polymer clay can be irritating to your
lungs and eyes. Avoid the area until the fumes dissipate and thoroughly clean the oven before using
again. The fumes are particularly hazardous to small pets.
Avoid breathing the powder residue from drilling and sanding the polymer clay. Careful handling
of instruments and equipment can eliminate accidents as well.top
POLYMER CLAY BRAND COMPARISON (NON-SCIENTIFIC)
All Clays Bake at 260-275 F (Fluorescent and Glow in Dark usually lower,
Formello higher). Read labels -- Formulations of FIMO are changing, don't make
any assumptions. Use an oven thermometer --don't trust your oven to be
accurate. Most ovens are off 25-50 degrees.
The thicker the item, the longer it must be baked. Small beads may need only
20 minutes. When in doubt, bake longer. The clay gains strength up to 2
hours. Because the clay has no water in it, it can be baked for over 24 hours
without being harmed if the temperature is not too hot. My oven keeps an
even temperature for about 45 minutes and then the temperature starts climbing.
Clay baked too hot will discolor, brown or burn. Burned clay (300+ degrees
will burn) creates toxic fumes. Air out the room immediately. Use caution,
stay safe, and you will have success.
CERNIT
Cost: Medium
Strength: Good to Excellent - Tough, Strong
Baked Texture: Hard, Cool to Touch
Working Text.: Not Mushy, Not Stiff - Very Nice
Conditioning: Needs Time, but not too Tough
Colors: Waxy, not much Pigment - "Glamour" Colors Better
Availability: Somewhat hard to Find
Finish: Semi-Matte
Weight: Medium
Manufactured: Germany
Best Uses: Great for Thin Sheets in Wrinkled Textures -
Strong against Abrasion and Pressure -
Best product for doll making
For more information see
FIMO
Cost: Medium/High
Strength: Good to Excellent - Resilient
Baked Texture: Slightly Rubber-like, Warm to Touch
Working Text.: Slightly Stiff, keeps integrity well
Conditioning: Tough to knead, sometimes crumbly
Colors: Excellent (dark colors get darker after baking)
Availability: Excellent
Finish: Semi-Glossy
Weight: Heavy
Manufactured: Germany
Best Uses: When Resilience is Necessary
When Color and Strength are Both Important
-Best product for cane making.
For more information see
FORMELLO
Cost: Medium
Strength: Good (Must Bake at 275F/20 min. or Very Weak)
Baked Texture: Warm to Touch - Quite Flexible in Thin Layers
Working Text.: Sticks to Itself, Easy to Slice
Conditioning: Easy - Not too Mushy, Not too Stiff
Colors: Pretty Good - Some Colors Slightly Waxy
Availability: Difficult to Find
Finish: Semi-Matte Sheen
Weight: Medium/Heavy
Manufactured: Germany
Best Uses: When Flexibility Needed; General Use
Special Concerns:Can crack unpredictably when not smooth on the surface before
baking.
PROMAT
Cost: Medium/High
Strength: Strong
Baked Texture: Waxy
Working Text.: Resinous, Sticky, Wax-like
Conditioning: Stiff but not Crumbly
Colors: Translucent, Except for Frosted Colors, Metallics
(Does have three Glow-in-the-Dark Colors)
Availability: Somewhat Difficult to Find
Finish: Semi-Gloss
Weight: Medium
Manufactured: U.S.A.
Best Uses: Tensile Strength, Glow Colors
SCULPEY III
Cost: Inexpensive
Strength: Brittle in Sheets, Fine for Beads
Baked Texture: Porous, Dry to the Touch
Working Text.: Soft, Mushy in Hot Weather (may smear when sliced)
Conditioning: Minimal Kneading Necessary
Colors: Strong Pigment, Sometimes Garish, Good for Blending
Availability: Excellent
Finish: Matte, Ceramic-Like
Weight: Lightweight
Manufactured: U.S.A.
Best Uses: For Children or Arthritic Hands (Less kneading); beads; when
Weight is a Problem.
Large earrings, center of large beads.
For further Information on Sculpey and Supersculpey see:
Polyproductstop
There are a number of ways to warm polyclay for use and some are quite inventive. You may use
whatever it takes to warm the clay, short of baking. Some will carry the packaged clay in their pocket and
use body warmth. Some use a heating pad on the lowest setting. Placing the opened product in a
sandwich baggy and floating in warm water will also work. Add more warm water as it cools and turn the baggy often for approximately 15 minutes. You can even warm it with your hands, rolling it until pliable. Microwavable gel packs, meant for warming baby bottles are another good
suggestion.
If you place the clay on a window sill to soften by the sun's warmth, be careful not to leave it for more than a few minutes. The sun can begin to bake the clay quite rapidly. If the temperature of the clay rises above body temperature, it will begin to cure.
One of the most popular methods for warming the clay uses the microwave oven. Place the opened clay
on a glass dish or tray and warm at high power for 12-20 seconds. Any longer then this and the clay may begin to bake.
By popular opinion, the food processor is the conditioner of choice. Not only does it warm the clay but
aids in the conditioning. The food processor should be dedicated to this purpose only and not used for
food preparation. First the package of clay is cut into 1/2 inch pieces and dumped into the processor. The
processor is then pulsed off and on until the clumping stops. Then, run the processor for approximately
30 seconds. This turns the clay into tiny balls, and also warms it. If it feels dry and won't press together
easily, add one or two drops of mineral oil, vegetable oil or Sculpey Dilutent (a plasticizer in a bottle)
and run the processor again. Too much oil, however, can make the clay sticky and too soft. Press the
clay balls together and take out of the processor. It can then be flattened and run through the pasta
machine.
Before kneading begins, wash your hands. Especially, clean hands thoroughly before changing
colors.
Clay that is warmed by methods other than the food processor, must be kneaded by hand until it no
longer crumbles when twisted. Kneading is accomplished by squeezing the clay in your hands it will
soon yield to the pressure and you can begin to roll it between your palms making a snake shape. Fold the
snake over onto itself and twist the two side until it breaks and repeat the process until pliable. The pasta
machine can also be used to knead the clay. When the clay is pliable enough to make a snake shape, it
can be pressed through the pasta machine, starting at the widest open position. Flatten the clay with a
roller or brayer and pass it through the pasta machine. Continue folding the sheets and running it through
the machine adjusting the opening smaller as the clay becomes softer and more malleable. About 15
passes should condition the clay for use and ensure that when the clay is cured it will be stable and not
brittle. Improper kneading can cause the finished product to crack or have a porous look. Colors can
also be mixed together using any of these methods.
MixQuick is a softening medium developed especially for FIMO to make it more workable. Adding one
part to 4 or 5 parts is the general rule. It is also acceptable to incorporate a dab of petroleum jelly.
Though Sculpey is a much softer composition, it still requires proper conditioning to produce an
acceptable product.top
Let your imagination work for you. Simple beads can be made by taking a piece of preconditioned
polyclay and rolling it between your palms until it is a round ball. Pierce the ball with a needle or
piercing tool, being careful to just break the surface on the opposite side, then complete the piercing
through the bead in the opposite direction, thread onto florist wire or a wooden skewer for larger holes
and bake at the recommended temperature previously mentioned.
Makea marbled bead by taking two or three complimenting colors. Either blend by hand or use the
pasta machine, blending until you have a neat marbled effect that appeals to you. Then, proceed to roll
intoballs, pierce, thread and bake. To make all your beads the exact size, roll a snake with an amount of conditioned polyclay to a
thickness of about 1/2 inch. Measure a 1/2 inch length and cut. If this makes a bead the size that you
have in mind, continue to use 1/2 inch slices for the remainder.
Another simple bead is made from a bull's eye cane. Start with a center of any color you wish. Roll it
into a snake shape, about 2 inches long and 1/2 inch thick. Roll out a thin sheet of polyclay of another
color to cover the center piece. Roll to about 1/8 inch thick by 2 inches wide by 2 inches long. Make certain the sheet is long
enough to cover the snake shape. Place the centerpiece snake along the 2 inch wide end of the strip and
roll to cover. The cover strip will wrap around and just meet at the joint. Roll another thin sheet of
another color to the same thickness as the first, only the strip must be 1/2 inch longer. Apply in the same
manner. Next, roll a bead of a color to compliment the bull's eye cane and slicing thin sheets of the cane, apply them to the bead in an attractive pattern. Roll the
bead between your palms until the joint lines disappear. Pierce, thread and bake.
Other simple beads can be made from jelly roll cane. A jelly roll cane is produced by rolling two thin
sheets of polyclay together. The cane is then sliced and applied to a bead as demonstrated above.
For variation, apply 5, 1/2 inch thick by 2 inch long bull's eye canes around a center bull's eye or jelly
roll cane. Wrap these with a complimentary colored sheet of polyclay and then proceed to roll the cane
applying gentle pressure until the length reaches about 10-12 inches. Stop sooner for larger cane slices or
later for smaller slices. Roll a bead from a complimentary color and apply thin cane slices. Roll the bead
between your palms until the seams disappear, pierce, thread and bake.top
How do I attach "clay" to glass?
Most things will stick better if they are glued on, but most things will fit better
if they are baked on--so combine the two. Almost everything but some plastics will
stand the oven temperatures needed for Fimo--even with baking for an hour at 275 as City Zen Cane
has recommended. Paper burns at 451 F and glass at several thousand degrees. Apply
the canes to the glass, but make sure that you can get them off again without
breaking--either separate sections if the glass is odd-shaped, or by slipping it off
if it is a round and smooth. Bake--cool completely--then use "Zap-a-Gap", "Goop" or a similar glue
to fasten the pieces down permanently. Glass will hold in the heat, so you may want
to bake at a lower temperature.
A hint for ease in baking odd shaped glass objects is to place in a bed
of fiberfill. It will not burn at low temperatures and the fiberfill holds the item in place.top
How is it cured?
All clays bake at 260-275 F (Fluorescent and Glow in Dark usually lower,
Formello higher). Read labels -- Formulations of FIMO are changing, don't make
any assumptions. Use an oven thermometer. Don't trust your oven to be
accurate. Most ovens are off 25-50 degrees.
The thicker the item, the longer it must be baked. Small beads may need only
20 minutes. When in doubt, bake longer. The clay gains strength up to 2
hours. Because the clay has no water in it, it can be baked for over 24 hours
without being harmed if the temperature is not too hot.
Clay baked too hot will discolor, brown or burn. Burned clay (300+ degrees
will burn) creates toxic fumes. Air out the room immediately. Use caution,
stay safe, and you will have success.top
What are the different finishes?
Baked polymer clay has an attractive finish as is, but if you wish to give it a shine there are several things
you can do. Simply buffing with a soft cloth will enhance the shine. There are acrylic lacquer products
available that can be brushed on the surface and allowed to dry thoroughly before handling. The most common
ones are varnishes offered under the brand names, of Fimo and Sculpey, available in both a glossy or
matte finish.
Another simple way to enhance the shine is by using a polymer floor wax, such as "Future". The wax
can be applied with a Q-tip, sponge brush or dipped. After drying, another coat can be applied. Coating your
finished work with polymer floor wax will give it a "plastic-look".
Sanding the item is a preferred method of finishing the clay. Using progressively finer "wet/dry"
sandpaper will result in a harder appearing 'stone-like finish. Holding the item under a trickling stream
of water or dipping it into a container of water using , for example, 320 grit to 600 grit and ending with
the highest possible, a 1500 grit or better will yield attractive results. Polymer clay powder resulting from dry sanding should not be inhaled.
Always sand the clay under water. "Wet/dry" sandpaper is available at hardware stores. Finest grit may
be available at automotive stores.
There are other commercial products available, such as acrylic spray lacquers and plastic varnishes.
Experiment with caution. Many of the products can dissolve polymer clay.top
FAQ Continued
Air dry Clays
Fimo and Cernit
Other Clays
Paperclay
Polyclay
Promat
Resin
Sculpey (a)
Sculpey (b)
Supersculpey
Granitex
Elasticlay
Return to Interesting Links Page
